Frequently Asked Questions
Damp Proofing
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"Why do I have to have the plaster removed when you install a new damp proof course? It looks sound enough?"
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Because it is highly likely to contain, as a result of the rising damp , ground salts such as chlorides and nitrates. These are hygroscopic which means that they can absorb moisture from the atmosphere so in cases of high humidity there is continuing internal wall dampness. Replacing the plaster removes this problem and using a special salt retardant additive in the replastering will prevent any residual salts in the brickwork from migrating into the plaster after the rising damp has been controlled.
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"How can I tell if the house has condensation problems or it is rising damp "
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Rising damp is a specific ground floor condition manifesting itself on outside walls (although it can also affect some interior walls) starting at the skirting boards and rising up to no more than 1 metre above the floor level. It also has a tendency to peak at the corners of the wall.
Condensation on the other hand can arise anywhere in the property where the right atmospheric conditions prevail dependent on temperature, humidity and insulation.
The tricky problem however is deciding between rising damp and condensation as the cause of ground floor wall dampness and, sadly, rising damp is incorrectly diagnosed all too often. This is where the skills of a trained and qualified surveyor are needed because the two conditions have very different moisture profiles. Fill in our online enquiry form to arrange a survey.
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"What is condensation?"
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Condensation occurs when warm moisture laden air meets a cold surface. Ordinarily the air in our atmosphere contains anything between 0 to 4% water vapour. The key factors involved in causing condensation are – The amount of water vapour in the property (measured in relative humidity), the amount of air circulation in the property and the air temperature both inside and outside. Basically the warmer the air temperature the greater its capacity for holding water vapour, therefore making it more likely that condensation will occur. As the air cools it will reach a point where it can no longer hold water vapour (The dew point) and the water vapour will start to condensate, forming as small droplets of water on the cooler surface – for example on windows.
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"What is the difference between Rising damp and condensation?"
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Condensation can arise anywhere within the property as long as the right atmospheric conditions are available. Rising damp however is specific to the ground floor only of the property. It appears mainly on outside walls (although it can also affect interior walls). Rising damp can rise to approx 1m above the floor level. Condensation is often misdiagnosed by inexperienced surveyors as Rising damp in ground floor conditions. This is where a skilled and trained surveyor is required for an accurate diagnosis.
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"Should I ignore condensation?"
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Condensation can cause damage not only to your home but your belongings too. Stains, mould and mildew are visual signs of a condensation problem but condensation can also lead to poor health and respiratory problems – for example asthma. Ignore condensation at your peril!
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"What causes timbers to decay?"
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Excessive moisture, from a flood, leak or defective guttering, for example. Rot can also occur when timbers are in contact with damp walls due to lack of ventilation or lack of an effective damp proof course, for instance. It is usually found in hidden unventilated voids where timbers are present. Wet rot stays localised to the source of moisture and the timber is wet in appearance.
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"How much will it cost to treat timber decay and will you give me a fixed price quotation for the work?"
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It is not possible to provide any cost of treatment until the full extent of the problem is identified. To do this, we would have to carry out a full survey before we could provide a quotation.
However, as dry rot can spread to other areas not evident at the time of inspection, we recommend a full exposure survey be carried out to all adjoining areas to avoid unforeseen additional works and costs. Only then can we provide a fixed price quotation for all identified and listed works, as will be stated in our report.
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"What can I expect to happen if I don’t have the problem treated?"
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The longer wet rot is left untreated, the further the decay can extend, causing additional disruption and increased costs when the problem is addressed. It is recommended that any expected wet rot be checked by a qualified surveyor as soon aas possible. Fill in our online enquiry form to arrange a survey.
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"What is the difference between Dry rot and Wet rot ?"
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The difference between these 2 different types of rot is as follows: Dry rot does not need to be near the source of moisture and grows via hyphae growth. Often a fruiting body is visible that disperses millions of Dry rot spores. Wet rot has to be close to the source of moisture. The timber will show signs of cuboidal cracking.
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"How can rot be prevented in the first place?"
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All rots are as a result of moisture entering the building at some point. As long as the building is well maintained and kept water tight and free from damp, problems should be kept to a minimum.
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"I’ve discovered a number of insects on the window sill in my dining room. Do I have woodworm?"
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It would not be possible to say for definite without seeing a sample, but there are other signs of woodworm infestation in your property you can look for. For instance, holes in any of the structural timbers or any evidence of bore dust (small piles of dust, sometimes called ‘frass’), which is caused by adult woodworm beetles emerging from the timber. If so, you really need an experienced surveyor to carry out a thorough inspection so that the infestation can be dealt with promptly and effectively. Fill in our online enquiry form to arrange for one of our surveyors to come and see you.
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"I think my house suffers from wall tie corrosion. Does this means replacing all the ties?"
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Not necessarily, this can only be determined after a specialist survey to examine the true condition of the ties on each elevation. This will involve use of an endoscope and the physical removal of sample ties. The condition of the ties may vary from elevation to elevation particularly in exposed locations. If you are concerned fill in our online enquiry form to arrange a survey.
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"What do you do about the old ties?"
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Because they will continue to corrode, old wall ties need to be either removed or isolated from further exposure to water and air. Physical removal usually involves taking out bricks which makes it a disruptive and more costly approach.
If the ties are heavily corroded, it is sometimes feasible to snap off the end of the tie in the outer leaf which is the section most susceptible to corrosion.
The alternative, and more commonly adopted, solution is isolation. This involves raking out the mortar joint thoroughly to expose both sides of the tie and then encapsulate it using polyurethane foam. The joint is then repointed, taking care to match the existing mortar as far as possible.
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